No, the CLK and DT pins of KY-040 already have hardware pull-ups.
You should only add it for the push-button pin, which does not have a hardware pull-up.
Hi WP, welcome to the thread. The Post you are referring to is from the first Rotary Encoder Plug-in. This Thread is about the Rotary Encoder 2 plug-in.
I’m the author of the latter.
Since both plugins work differently, your issue is probably different.
To help you, we need more info.
You can find more information about using the plug-in and how to report issues in the first post.
Read your problem report again: normally the plug-in does not do anything with the wifi or Ethernet connection.
I can think of two explanations:
The hardware connection/wiring of the rotary is causing issues:e.g. some unwanted current affecting the power supply (if you have such current, the power may be too weak to drive the network)
Something is sending commands so fast, that the RPi is too busy to run the network. But I never experienced such high load ever on my system. I can always connect via ssh even during debugging.
First recommendation is to check proper wiring
Which version of the plug-in do you use? It is displayed in the plug-in section under installed plugins
Keep in mind, that the RPi officially needs a 5.1V power supply. If you are running on a regular Phone-USB-Charger, you may already be violating the spec. They are normally rated 5V and the RPi drops a little voltage over its input protection circuit.
The above link also has the maximum current, that each model can drive on the USB.
Good luck!
If your Pi is connected to a display via HDMI you may see a small flash symbol in the corner of the screen sometimes indicating under-voltage. If you look into the log, you may see messages saying under-voltage detected.
You can also use a multimeter to measure the actual voltage on the 5V pin of the RPi header.
Official supplies from the RPi foundation have 5.1V.
Even with sufficient voltage, you still need to make sure, that both the RPi and your power supply can deliver sufficient current. If the Speaker draws more current than the supply can deliver or the RPi can safely pass from supply to Speaker, you may need a USB-Hub with separate power supply (as described in the article I linked above).
If you need more detailed help, please disclose your RPi model and the power requirements of the Speaker - there should be a label with current (symbol I, unit A or mA) or power (symbol P, unit W or mW) requirements on the side or back. I also need to know, if there are more USB peripherals connected
Thanks, unfortunately having prchased an official Pi power supply, I’m still having the same issue.
Funnily enough it is only the second rotary encoder that doesn’t work. The first encoder works fine. Swapping the encoder itself with a different one also makes no difference.
I’ve attached a pic of my set up.
Components:
Minirig speaker (running off an internal battery)
Raspberry Pi 4b
5 inch capacitive touch screen
Regarding the log, can I check this this via Putty SSH?
Many thanks for your assistance and please excuse any amateurish questons!
Can you draw a schematic for all your wiring. Its almost impossible to see where everything is wired to.
Also what are you doing to set the logic state of your gpio’s, I dont see any pull up/down resistors any where.
I also dont see any current limiting resistors inline between your rotary’s, switches and the gpio pins which could be potentially dangerous to your RPi
M1ck has already asked most of the questions I would also have.
Even if the RPi is making it look easy, you are still more or less directly playing with the GPIO pins of a microprocessor.
I have spent hours to write instructions about wiring. Did you take some time to read those?
You can find them here
If you follow the basic recommendations there, it should work.
Hi, I want to use 2 rotary encoders for seek in title and second for volume but I want to have additional separate buttons. is it possible to use with this pluggin separate momentary button instead of using rotary encoder with integrated button?
This is my actual setup.
If I understand you correctly, you want to use 7 buttons and two rotaries.
That is not possible out of the box.
The plug-in supports up to 3 rotaries with button. You are free to use up to 3 rotaries without button (or without wiring the button) + up to 3 separate buttons.
You could additionally load another plug-in to support the other buttons, e.g. “GPIO Buttons” by @Darmur
You will need quite a lot of GPIOs though: 7+4. Watch out for the blocked ones.
Thanks T0MR0 for your answer. I realize that so :
Play/Stop , Next, Prev , Shutdown works with GPIO Buttons plug-in.
I just want to use 2 rotaries without button and to aditional 2 separate buttons for Mute and Repeat.
I read all those informations here, and I tried different connection possibilities with 5v, 3.3v, with and without resistors and i can’t get it to work. As you can see I have added picture with list of GPIO I have used now. there seems to be enough free GPIO ports.
Sorry, I think I do not understand, what your issue is.
Can you try to follow the instructions I gave in the first post?
It’s difficult and too time-consuming to try finding problems based on photos of flying-wire setups. A schematic drawing and a log-file would also be helpful.
I drafted the connection of a Rotary Encoder in this picture. If you disconnect at S1 and S2 and place a normal push-button between the open wires, it will work as well.